BlogMay 4, 2023May 4, 2023 by Pamela Tabago

Chapter Rings: What You Need To Know

Chapter Rings: Choosing the Right One for You?

Frequently, people confuse a chapter ring with the inner bezel ring that encircles the area between the dial and the crystal. The phrase “chapter ring” is frequently used incorrectly when referring to the rehaut alone. Even in the watch world, chapter rings are not commonly understood, despite the fact that they make it easier to read the time on a watch.

Practically speaking, a chapter ring is a ring that surrounds the dial or the hour markers, which can be found on the dial’s edge or the rehaut. OEM Seiko SKX divers have access to the minute markets on the chapter ring to easily read the time. The word is frequently used in the context of Seiko Mods.

But What is a Chapter Ring?

In its simplest definition, a chapter ring is a ring that is frequently attached to the dial’s outer border. Tracks or indexes can be added to chapter rings to serve as time cues.

The majority of chapter rings have a simple minute track and, on occasion, a circle connecting them. According to Seiko nomenclature, the chapter ring doesn’t need to have markings, despite what some purists claim.

You might find it useful to go through our selection of chapter rings to get a better idea of the variety we have to offer. For the sake of conciseness, we nevertheless refer to them as chapter rings, although some are blank and lack markers.

What Should I Consider in Chapter Rings?

A chapter ring may seem little, but if you choose a pattern or color that complements your watch, it may add both flair and utility to the timepiece. The aesthetic of a Seiko SKX007 mod could be pretty much anything. The chapter ring can feature markers, numbers, GMT or nothing at all. Additionally, other finishes are available, including brushed gold, polished rose gold, polished silver, orange, or many other colors. Are you trying to decide which chapter ring will work best with your Seiko mod? We’ll help you figure it out!

WOULD YOU WANT: ONE WITH MARKERS OR NONE?

On a sports watch, a chapter ring may have markers that make it easier to see the time. Lines, numerals, or other symbols may be used as these markers.

If the minute track on the dial and bezel insert already exists, you can omit the markers on the rehaut and maintain a tidy appearance. This is a wonderful concept for Rolex tribute watches since it closely matches the steel rehaut of a Rolex sports watch.

Furthermore, there is a chance that not all the lines will be 100% exactly aligned due to minute markers on the dial, chapter ring, and bezel insert, which will detract from the overall appearance.

Both aftermarket and OEM parts fall under this. However, if you don’t mind carefully aligning all the components, adding indicators to the chapter ring when the dial and bezel insert already have them will improve visibility.

WOULD YOU WANT: A LUMED CHAPTER RING OR NON-LUMED?

It is not essential to utilize a lumed chapter ring, just as a bezel insert is not required as the dial markers most likely already glow brightly. A lumed chapter ring, however, can help you see the time in the dark if you choose to use a dial without lume—as long as the hands are lumed.

THE COLOR CHOICE?

The chapter ring’s color may simply match the watch motif, but it also can create a visual break without compromising the watch’s readability. An all-black construction, for instance, will seem more vibrant with a bright orange chapter ring than without.

Maintain a chapter ring in a neutral color, such as PVD black or plain stainless steel, if you want to draw greater attention to the watch’s face. Rolex uses plain stainless steel, therefore it should be suitable for a bespoke homage build!

WHAT FINISH WOULD I WANT?

You must take the overall design of the watch into account while choosing the finish for a chapter ring. You may use a matte chapter ring if your case is polished to provide contrast. The dial and color scheme should also be taken into account. Make a deliberate choice regarding your design after looking through build samples.

THE RIGHT CHAPTER RING CHOICE FOR YOUR MOD

There is no denying that the most crucial factor in selecting a chapter ring is your own choice. Up until this point, you may have disregarded this element of watch design, but after reading this, you will pay close attention to every chapter ring and rehaut.

You may utilize some of our more inventive chapter rings to create new watch designs in addition to utilizing the appropriate chapter ring for a certain aesthetic, such as a brushed steel chapter ring for a Rolex tribute. Make something you adore using your imagination!

Watch-Modz offers excellent components that are crafted with a lot of love, effort, passion, and commitment. Even despite the fact that there are many options for watch modification parts available in the market, we maintain the highest quality.

The continuous quest for high-quality, matching components is the biggest obstacle in this modding adventure, but fear not—Watch-Modz has you covered. As we work toward success, we also consider what features you, our consumers, would like to see in your watches. This commitment leads to an ever-growing selection.

You could always go through the variety of watch components we proudly provide in our shop’s catalog, but our presence extends farther than that. Without a doubt, we can support you on your watch modification adventure!

May we all enjoy this fantastic adventure!

About The Author

Pamela Tabago is an Information Specialist at Watch-Modz LLC. She is passionate about everything related to watches, from the best automatics to modding a Seiko.
She brings her data-driven experience in informative writing and her love for watches to the blog. She also provides watch-related content for other modding enthusiasts like herself.

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BlogMay 3, 2023May 3, 2023 by Pamela Tabago

The Seamaster Story

The Seamaster and the Story Behind It

It is difficult to top the Omega Seamaster if you’re searching for a fantastic diving watch. After all, a well-known and reputable brand in the luxury watch industry is Omega. It is one of the top watch brands currently making watches and has a long history producing the Seamaster.

It goes without saying that an Omega Seamaster will be expensive. What else would one anticipate for luxury?

Here at Watch-Modz we have a passion for timepieces, which is why we supply some of the best Seiko mod parts inspired by the Seamaster available. Watch-Modz has you covered whether you want a Seamaster style another well-known design.

Let’s have a quick glance at Omega and the history of the Omega Seamaster!

The Start of Omega

Louis Brandt created the first proto-Omega watches in 1848 in a modest watch factory in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland. The brand entered the global market under a new name after a number of accomplishments helped the business secure its position in the watchmaking sector.

These accomplishments included the introduction of the Labrador, the company’s first mass-produced caliber movement, and the 19-line Omega Caliber. From its previous name, Louis Brandt & Fil, the watch company changed its name to Omega Watch Co.

Omega Seamaster

The Seamaster, which was unveiled in 1948 to mark the company’s 100th anniversary, is a cornerstone of Omega’s enduring lineup. The watch was originally a simple dress watch that also occurred to be dust and moisture resistant. It adopted the toughness of timepieces made by Omega for service during World War II, while still having a stylish look.

Men were the intended audience for the first Seamaster. It was made to withstand the demands of daily living. The Seamaster watch became the official timepiece of the Bond film franchise when it was worn by Pierce Brosnan in the critically acclaimed James Bond movie GoldenEye in 1995. One of the most iconic timepieces in history, the Seamaster is still linked to 007 and the exploits of the most well-known spy in the world. The Seamaster’s development is evidence of the human spirit’s unceasing ascent to go higher, quicker, and in this case, deeper.

Seamaster 1948

2018 saw the release of Seamaster 1948 Heritage as an anniversary piece to mark the beginning of Omega’s first official line, the Seamaster. It is regarded as a lost beauty.

Around 100,000 timepieces from Omega were sent to the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) during World War 2 as proof of their high level of dependability and water resistance. With sapphire crystal on the front and back, the stainless steel Seamaster 1948 case is 38.4mm in width and 12.3mm in thickness. While the sides are primarily satin, the bezel and tops of the lugs are polished.

The 70th-anniversary commemorative design, which features a Chris Craft boat and a Gloster Meteor airplane, is laser engraved in the crystal when you turn the watch over and look at the case back. The Royal Air Force’s first jet aircraft is seen in the images, and the two vehicles symbolize the personnel who wore this Omega Seamaster while serving in the air and on the water.

The Seamaster 1948 boasts a lot of elegant, subtle accents while not being a dramatic or spectacular watch. Regrettably, another line, the Omega Seamaster 300M, may eclipse the elegance of this momentous milestone.

Seamaster Planet Ocean

Another series that has been a huge success for Omega is the Seamaster Planet Ocean. Not only is it undeniably luxurious, but the Seamaster Planet Ocean’s sizes, state-of-the-art materials, and versatile styling have also lifted it into the category of a modern icon. It is considered a luxury watch that matches sporty and everyday wear.

Built on the Seamaster legacy that stretches back to 1948, the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M has become an instant icon and is recognized as one of the best dive watches on the planet. The collection has been upgraded throughout three generations and has also seen many limited editions.

The selection available from the Seamaster Planet Ocean collection is broad. Apart from time and date, chronograph, and GMT variants, there are several case sizes and material choices, 600 meters of water resistance, and a helium escape valve. By having ceramic and liquid metal bezels, the watch’s appearance also saw various modifications.

Master Co-Axial movements, which are the line’s most recent improvement, increase the watches’ magnetic resistance to greater than 15,000 gauss. METAS’s Master Chronometer accreditation was awarded to the watch as a result of this modification. This indicates that a watch is extremely accurate and excels in a number of areas.

Seamaster 300M

A Master Chronometer-certified movement, the Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, is used in the Seamaster 300M, a vintage re-edition of the famous 1957 watch.

Particularly among enthusiasts, the Seamaster Diver 300M range has quietly grown in popularity. The watch fits into the category of “just right” size and is a 42mm stainless steel diving watch. The carved wave design that has served as the Seamaster’s identifying characteristic since 1994 can be seen on its beautiful white polished ceramic dial. Arabic numerals at ten-minute intervals are placed on the bezel. A helium release valve is also located at 10 o’clock.

The Seamaster Diver 300M fully embodies its moniker as a one-stop shop for all things nautical and elegant.

—–

The ability of Omega to create some of the greatest timepieces in the world has been proven. Check out our extensive range of Seamaster conversion parts for Seiko modding if you want to build your own version.

You may customize your timepiece using Seiko aftermarket parts and create more imaginative and enjoyable versions of the Seamaster at home. One of the finest deals available is a Seiko Mod, and we want to work with you to shape the watch industry’s future of customization.

Modding Your Own Seamaster

For your Seamaster inspired build, you may choose from a large selection of Seiko mod parts and designs. You can modify your preferred Watch-Modz Seamaster case or SKX case anyway you wish.

Our commitment to high-quality Seiko Mod parts is evident across our whole collection, which demonstrates how seriously we take Seiko Modding. Without spending thousands of dollars on the original watch, you may build innovative designs that honor the Seamaster using a Seiko Conversion Case.

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BlogMay 1, 2023May 1, 2023 by Pamela Tabago

Changing Watch Hands

A Note for New Seiko Modders: What You Need to Know Before Changing Watch Hands.

Watches are created to tell time, and in order to do so, a build needs its watch hands. The hands are the most visible and important part of any watch.

It is undeniably true that watch hands have a significant impact on how it looks overall. Preserving the watch in its pristine condition is crucial to many watch enthusiasts. In the watch-modding community, altering watch hands may give it a very different feel overall and is a popular mod.

You may have thought of replacing the watch hands if you enjoy Seiko modifications. The explanation is simple: because they are an integral component of the watch face, the hands contribute significantly to its aesthetic appeal.

Switching the watch hands on an SKX might be a good place to start if you want to give your watch a new, energizing appearance.

When selecting the appropriate watch hands, there are a number of factors to take into account. Here at Watch-Modz, we offer you some of the widest variety of aftermarket hands for you to pick from. We provide other styles to meet your demands as a custom Seiko modder in addition to designs that resemble OEM hands.

Best Hands What Kind of Hands Make Sense for Your Seiko Mod?

Some watch brands have created a strong identity with the hands they use. This leaves watch enthusiasts with a variety of choices when it comes to watch hands, and many options when designing a Seiko mod.

A Style you’d Love

Rolex watches are inseparable from the Iconic Mercedes handset. Our Mercedes hands are the best option if you want to make a watch that pays homage to the Rolex Submariner.

Other modders could be interested in creating a Seiko modification that incorporates hands from a different Seiko model, such as our MM300 hands. The MM300 is a fantastic watch, and the Seiko 5 or SKX mod would look fantastic with its handset.

We also offer different styles of watch hands, which can look fantastic on any Seko inspired build.

What to Consider in Choosing your watch hands?

It is wise to think about the color and design of the hands you are installing to your watch. With Seiko, it’s rather simple to match the watch hands’ size to the movement. The 7S family of movements, which comprises the 4R series and the 6R series, should fit any of our hands. Any Seiko SKX or 5KX can fit all of our watch hands. If you require a different pair of hands, Watch-Modz is available and willing to assist you in every query. Be certain about the type of watch hands that your movement requires since they must fit perfectly to ensure the appropriate operation of the watch. Thinking about the style and color of the hands is also necessary, and probably a lot more fun.

WE HAVE A LARGE COLLECTION OF HANDS AND CAN PROVIDE SEIKO MODDERS WITH A WIDE RANGE OF HIGH-QUALITY SEIKO COMPONENTS. IN ADDITION TO A BROAD SELECTION OF POLISHED SILVER HANDS THAT ARE COMPATIBLE WITH THE NH35, WE ALSO HAVE GOLD, ROSE GOLD, AND BLACK HANDS THAT ENABLE A GREAT VARIETY OF SEIKO MODIFICATIONS.

THE FOLLOWING SEIKO WATCH MOVEMENTS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH OUR HANDS: THE 7S26, 7S36, 7S25, 7S35, 6R15, 4R15, 4R35, 4R36, 6309, 7002, 7009, NH35, NH35A, NH36, NH36A, NH38, NH39, NH70, NH71, NH72.

A Seiko SKX or Seiko 5 would look drastically different even if you merely changed the hands and bezel insert. View our catalog of bezel inserts as well to get a better understanding of what Watch-Modz has to offer Seiko Modders.

Must-have Tools in Changing your Seiko Mod Handset

Once you’ve selected a perfectly suited hand set that fits your movement and style preferences, it’s time to gather all the tools and supplies needed to complete the change.

The majority of the supplies you’ll need to do a hand swap are in the list that follows and provides you an indication of what you’ll need.

Set of 3 – Hand-Setting Tool

You’ll need watch hand pushers that are made specifically for an hour hand, minute hand, and second hand. Some people might tell you that one tool does it all – but we highly recommend having the right tool for each type of hand.

Dial Protectors

Dial protectors make sure you are not causing any harm when you install the hands. With the aid of this tool, it is simple to detach your watch hands without fretting about scratching the watch face and to replace them safely without endangering the dial.

Rodico - Premium Cleaning Putty

Rodico is great when it comes to removing dust or hairs from your watch dial. Bergeon 7033 Rodico Premium Cleaning Putty makes it simple to remove most smudges and fingerprints from a watch dial, hands, or any other surface.

Additionally, you can use this cleaning putty to lift precision watch parts as it will not smear or mark the fragile surfaces. Rodico Premium Cleaning Putty is worth having – no matter what parts of your Seiko you are modding.

Hand Removers

A quality hand remover is a must-have tool. These lever type tools make the process of removing your watch hands much easier. Don’t skimp on a hand remover – buy quality tools.

Anti-Magnetic Tweezers

Professional grade tweezers are a must-have when dealing with tiny watch hands. (You can also use Rodico to hold your hands) These anti-magnetic brass tweezers are a perfect fit for your modding toolkit. They are a vital part of any hand swapping process.

The delicate surfaces on the dial or watch hands will not be marred or smudged by brass tweezers or Rodico cleaning putty, so you may use it to lift precision watch components. No matter what sort of Seiko modifications you are making, Brass tweezers or Rodico Premium Cleaning Putty is valuable to have.

The Common Problems with Watch hands and what to do about it?

Despite the fact that the watch hands occupy a very small amount of the dial, they might still require attention if your watch is having issues. Here are a few issues with your watch that you might need to take care of.

Keep Your Work Area Clean

The majority of the time, if the hands do not run or appear to “jump” after installation, there was definitely a problem. However, it’s also important to keep in mind that occasionally this may be a component of the movement and may call for more research to repair.

Dust may have a big influence on how well your watch works over time, even if you don’t realize it. Dust harms the movement because it has the capacity to drain out lubrication, increasing the friction between the gears. This is one reason why keeping a clean work surface is important.

Diver’s watches, which are essentially shut off from the environment, may not be too susceptible to this problem; nonetheless, before you switch the hands, make absolutely sure the movement is clean, as well as your new hands.

The movement can also be directly impacted by problems with second hand hollow pins, gaps between hands, and tool selection while installing the hands. When installing them yourself, you need to be extremely careful and take your time.

Second Hand Issues

The last thing you want while switching a handset is obvious misaligned hands. This issue may have its origins in a poor installation or, in certain situations, a malfunctioning movement.

The hands not aligning properly or not being parallel to the dial is usually the result of an installation error. If this happens you will need to either repeat the installation or have a professional solve the problem. A second hand slanted and touching the glass or minute hand is one of the most common problems. If the second hand gets hung up due to improper installation it will cause a movement to not run.

Quartz Movements

You could be confused as to what’s wrong if your second hand moves for 2 seconds before appearing to “hesitate” for 1 second.

In certain circumstances, the second hand often jumps once every 2 seconds before “hesitating” for 1 second.

You can have a quartz watch that is telling you that the battery is dying. You’ll know for sure if even after skips, the watch is still displaying the proper time.

You should change the battery as soon as the second hand starts to hesitate to prevent the watch from completely malfunctioning. If the seconds hand on any automatic watch hesitates, there is likely a problem with the mechanism, and you should consult a watchmaker, or replace your movement.

Watch-Modz is here to help!

Great quality hands for Seiko modifications are available at Watch-Modz, and we also provide our customers with top-notch customer service! You can reach out to us a [email protected]

We ensure that every part we sell is completely working. However, if for any reason you have any issues, just reach out to us and we will be happy to make it right.

Please browse our wide range of Seiko-compatible watch hands and consider what a new handset could be able to accomplish for your next Seiko mod!

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BlogApril 28, 2023April 28, 2023 by Pamela Tabago

All About Watch Lume

LUMINESCENCE MAGIC: WATCH LUME

What is Watch Lume? When you were younger, I’m sure you wondered how some colors just glow in the dark. Now, as an adult, you will learn just how in this article all about watch lume!

The topic of luminous paint, often known as watch lume, will be covered in detail. Over time, watchmakers have used a variety of materials to create glowing components in watches, improving their usefulness at night. To help you better grasp how these hands, dials, bezel inserts and other components have been created, let’s go into some historical context.

A number of materials can be used to create the lume effect in a watch. Many different watch lume solutions have been tried out by the watch industry, some of which were quite risky! The kind of lume utilized and the amount of lume used both affect how long the watch lume will last. Some watchmakers use just one layer of lume, while others use many layers to make sure the watch not only glows brighter but also lasts longer.

A QUICK HISTORY OF LUME

Since the discovery of fire, people have been trying to find better and more advanced ways to see things in the dark. The end of the nineteenth century saw the invention of the contemporary wristwatch. The first few years after their creation, these watches were only worn by high-class, affluent women, as the gentlemen preferred the use of pocket watches, and by pilots, who used them to keep both hands free while flying.

Soldiers started donning wristwatches after the First World War so they wouldn’t have to remove a watch from their pocket to swiftly check the time when needed. The demand for high-end wristwatches rose globally as a result of this development. When troops wanted to know the time on the battlefield without having to strike a match or use a torch, watch lume became important. As more advanced glow-in-the-dark materials and methods have been developed since then, the effectiveness of watch luminescence has changed throughout the years.

LUME AND RADIOACTIVITY

Early on in their evolution, luminescent watches posed a threat. The original watch lume was produced using radium, which was dangerous for both the watch’s owner and the watchmakers who painted it onto the dials.

In the 1910s and 1920s, a working-class woman might make a respectable career by applying illuminating paint to watch dials. It evolved into a desirable position that required artistic aptitude. The innovative lume technique was state-of-the-art at the time, and workers enjoyed knowing that by creating readable watch dials for soldiers, they were aiding in the First World War effort. A precise brush used to apply the lume substance was often pointed with the tongue to maintain the bristles’ sharpness. It is also believed that employees had fun putting the phosphorescent substance into their fingernails, not knowing the dangers. Radium was the chemical in question; when mixed with zinc sulfide, it produced a dazzling light, which is phosphor.

Problems with Lume in the Early Days

Even while scientists and factory owners took safety procedures when handling larger amounts of radium, the working ladies were certain there wouldn’t be any negative consequences from the close contact with the chemical. It became clear that these females had been mistreated and neglected as their anemia, bone fractures, jaw necrosis, and finally when deaths started to manifest.

Grace Fryer and a group of female dial painters who went by the name of “Radium Girls” sued their employer, the United States Radium Corporation, in 1927. Due to this historical dispute, American employees now have better legal protection and are subject to stricter occupational safety regulations. Following that lawsuit, radium use was significantly decreased. The quantity of this substance used in watch displays had decreased by the 1960s to about one-tenth of what it had been in the early 1900s, and it was ultimately outlawed outright in 1968.

The Safer Switch

As a replacement, a brand-new radioactive element called tritium appeared. Tritium paint-based luminescence watches frequently use plastic tubes. Tritium dispersed and found its way into the dial, crystal, and case back, where it might have eventually reached the skin of the wearer. As a result, this invention had to be put into practice. Up until the early 1990s, tritium was largely superseded by two even safer substitutes that are still in use today, since it is far less radioactive than radium. Although tritium is now referred to as GTLS, or gaseous tritium light sources, several watch manufacturers, including Ball, Luminox, and Marathon, still employ it.

More impermeable than the paint on a dial that is just shielded by the watch glass, GTLS is carefully enclosed in incredibly small glass tubes. However, the manufacture of timepieces that use GTLS are prohibited in nations like Germany. Due to the fact that GTLS does not lose its brightness over time, unlike more contemporary varieties of lume, it is perfect for tool watches. After 24 years, with a half-life of around 12 years, only about 5% of the radioactive material is still present.

Tritium has been utilized in the past by a lot of watchmakers, including Rolex, the most renowned luxury watch brand. After tritium’s usage as a lume paint was banned in 1998, Rolex stopped using it. Since that time, Rolex has utilized its own kind of watch lume.

LumiNova Invention by Kenzo Nemoto

A Japanese man by the name of Kenzo Nemoto established a company in 1941 to sell phosphorescent paint. He was employed by the Japanese military during World War II to paint the gauges on airplanes and submarines. He had to look for new customers after the war because he was no longer painting for the military. Before turning to watches, Nemoto first made a living by painting the hands and hour marks on wall clocks.

Not long after the 1945 bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, a Japanese businessman began considering how to create a new non-radioactive light material, at a time when the Japanese were growing more cautious about the risks of radioactive materials.

Nemoto established Nemoto & Co. in 1962 while creating a unique phosphorescent material, and by 1993, the company had supplied a brand-new kind of watch lume to the watchmaking industry. The brand-new material, strontium aluminate, is a ground-breaking, non-hazardous phosphor that is resistant to temperature changes, does not deteriorate over time, and is unaffected by environmental variables. In order to create LumiNova AG Switzerland, a division that would shortly provide the watch industry with “Super-Luminova” paint—the brand name for the shimmering substance—Nemoto teamed up with Swiss-based RC-Tritec AG* in 1998.

The formula for Luminova was developed by Nemoto, which he then marketed to watchmakers who wanted to take advantage of the newest glow-in-the-dark technology. Approximately 10 times brighter than the preceding lume, LumiNova was available in a range of hues, from vivid blue to bright green. Although it was discovered that the green color shone the brightest, the blue hue was found to shine the longest. This new substance needs to be combined with a chemical element called europium in order to shine. Unlike its predecessors, LumiNova improves nocturnal visibility by being “charged” when exposed to light, whether it be natural or artificial.

The LumiNova is comparable to a light-storage battery. The optimum charge is supposed to be from sunlight, while artificial light can also charge the lume. Light stimulates electrons, which then rapidly charge, when it hits phosphorescent material.

Photoluminescence

The watch lume pigments that employ photoluminescent elements like strontium aluminate or LumiNova are now the most popular. This material, which is painted onto hands, numerals, and dials, absorbs light and then emits it again in the dark, usually with a green or blue hue.

The drawback of Luminova is its shorter lifetime, which is often just around seven hours in the dark, which is significantly less than the annual timeframe that previous radioactive treatments provided. Although other watchmakers like Seiko and Rolex develop their own unique formulas, the Swiss business founded by Kenzo Nemoto and associates is currently among the top suppliers of photoluminescent paint.

Electroluminescence: Another Way to Go

Electroluminescence is the process of producing light as a result of an electrical current passing through a phosphor. A glass or plastic plate beneath the dial of a watch contains an electric conductor and phosphor. When a button is pressed, an electric current is sent, causing the phosphor to react and function as a backlight. The most well-known analog watch with this type of “backlight” lighting is the Indiglo from Timex. Despite the fact that it is more frequently seen in digital watches, as one of the few producers of analog watches using this type of lume, Timex obtained the patent for the invention in 1992.

The Exclusive Seiko Lume

Seiko divers with LumiBrite (also known as Lumi Brite) have spectacular brightness and may be purchased for a few hundred to several thousand dollars. The LumiNova technology created by Kenzo Nemoto serves as its foundation. The LumiBrite from Seiko is completely safe for both people and the environment because it doesn’t include any radioactive or poisonous materials. In order to emit light in the dark, LumiBrite is an improved luminous paint that quickly collects and stores light energy from the sun and other lighting sources.

Jiro Uchida, Seiko’s president, when LumiBrite was announced, stated that “LumiBrite is a virtually permanent, non-radioactive, fluorescent coating that can light up the face of a watch, or just its hands and numbers, for up to five hours after two minutes of exposure to sunlight.”

Seiko started using LumiBrite in 1994 as their in house watch lume. Timex IndiGlo watches and Seiko LumiBrite watches were also released at the same time. Notably, Seiko’s advertising campaign at the time emphasized that LumiBrite is “without buttons to press” and is 10 times brighter than LumiNova.

We provide aftermarket Seiko mod parts at Watch-Modz that are just as good as or better than OEM standards. Mod parts from Watch-Modz and other Seiko divers’ mod components are incredibly affordable and have excellent fit and finish. We have several different lumed hands, bezel inserts, and dials available. Watch-Modz uses C3 (green) and BGW9 (blue) Super-LumiNova, which is currently the brightest watch lume on the market.

In order to determine the brightness scale for photoluminescence colors, C3, which has a brightness of 100% in the grading system, is used as a benchmark. BGW9 is around 95% as bright as C3 when compared but can glow slightly longer. For instance, C3 Super-LumiNova® Lume is utilized on several of our SKX-style watch components.

You undoubtedly share our passion of lume if you enjoy diver’s watches. Visit our website Watch-Modz.com to browse a huge range of the world’s greatest Seiko aftermarket mod parts with the best watch lume!

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BlogFebruary 28, 2023March 1, 2023 by Pamela Tabago

SRPD Parts Compatibility

Seiko 5 Sport SRPD Part Compatibility

Do you want to know what SKX007 mod parts will also work as SRPD parts? Well, read on to find out!

A variety of new and different case dimensions were recently released by Seiko called the SRPD. This entails that the 5KX versions are only applicable and compatible with moveable bezels. This discussion about compatibility exempts 5KX models with pilot bezels.

The SRPD and SRPE models, which Seiko officially confirmed and debuted in the fourth quarter of 2019, will end up replacing the SKX series, including SKX007, SKX009 and SKX011. They were introduced as Seiko 5 Sports lineups, also abbreviated “5KX” in the watch world.

Generally, the primary distinction between the SRPD/SRPE series and the SKX007 would be very minor to the eye. The distinctions are, in brief, as follows:
(SK007 AND SRPD/SRPE SERIES)

Do SKX007 Mod Parts Even Fit The SRPD?

Obviously, this surprised the whole watch industry, especially Seiko mod aficionados who have been very worried about the SKX series’ discontinuation this whole time yet thrilled about the new major releases.

Given that the market’s currently available mod components were initially created for the SKX007, a worrying query emerged among enthusiasts,

“Are SKX007 mod parts compatible with the SRPD parts on these new models?”

Well, the answer is, yes and no. While most parts will fit, there are a few key components that will not fit.

Below is a brief table listing the parts that are compatible or interchangeable between both the SRPD/SRPE series and the SKX007 model:

INCOMPATIBLE

The crown, spring bars, caseback gasket, and crystal gasket are the four pieces that cannot be used together. It makes sense that the SKX007, which has a screw-down crown, won’t fit SRPD/SRPE push/pull crowns. The SRPD series has somewhat smaller ends for spring bars. Therefore, SRPD/SRPE cases would not handle SKX007 fat spring bars. The SRPD/SRPE spring bars do fit within the SKX007 casing, though, due to their smaller ends. While the crystal does fit from an SKX007 the gasket is a different thickness.

FULLY COMPATIBLE

Moreover, the remaining, most commonly modified components, including the bezel, bezel insert, chapter ring, crystal, dial, and hands, precisely match the measurements of the SKX007 and SRPD/SRPE series, making them totally convertible. In simple terms, these compatible components created for the SKX007 will fit the SRPD/SRPE series perfectly.

You will be in an excellent position to know that whichever model you choose from the SRPD/SRPE series as a Seiko mod basis, one will indeed be capable of changing just about all the parts if you keep all these crucial Seiko modding details in mind.

What Did We Learn?

Modding the SRPD will not be that much different than modding a SKX007. The key differences being gaskets and crowns. Fortunately, the SRPD comes with a 4r36 movement, so you won’t need to change the stem or crown anyways to fit in your new mod.

You can also transfer the guts of the SRPD into an aftermarket SKX007 compatible case to fit all mod parts! So, don’t be scared to mod your first SRPD and save a little money instead of modding a discontinued SKX007.

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BlogOctober 25, 2022October 26, 2022 by Pamela Tabago

Watch Moisture Repair

SEIKO WATCH MOISTURE REPAIR

Have you ever wondered what makes a watch enthusiast worry? The presence of moisture or condensation inside your new Seiko will do it! It is known that Seiko Diver’s watches are highly water resistant, but these pieces need their regular maintenance to ensure that they hold up to their quality and performance.

Moisture and condensation in timepieces are common and can be caused for a lot of reasons. The smallest amount of moisture in a watch is a problem already, which fortunately has many simple solutions. Keep reading to find out why.

The presence of humidity has been a problem for watches for so long, so there are now proven tricks to protect your precious timepieces. Lucky for you, Watch-Modz is here to help you out! This blog will help you figure it out and dry out a humid watch all by yourself!

WATCH CONDENSATION: WHAT IS WATCH CONDENSATION AND ITS CAUSES?

Have you ever experienced a foggy, cloudy watch face or worse, water droplets inside its crystal? That is moisture. Moisture can also be detected or easily seen in such cases as transparent watch casebacks, which may also show you whether the parts, its movement, or the caseback itself have visible signs of moisture. Once you see this, you’d want to fix it quickly.

The condensation on a watch does not only obscure the time but also damages the internal parts of the piece. It is highly important that we understand the concept of watches being “water resistant” only, because a truly waterproof watch is just a myth.

Non-diver’s watches are mostly “water resistant” only to certain and limited depths of water. Those pieces are not designed to withstand prolonged exposure and immersion in water. Even the most extreme and expensive diver’s watches have depth limits. At some point they will eventually lose their resistance because of the increasing water pressure and time of exposure. You may be proud of your diver’s watch having a 150m water resistance rating, but if your piece has never been serviced for a couple of years, I don’t think it would even survive a trip to the shower.

WATERRESISTANT vs. WATERPROOF

First, let us clear out the misunderstanding behind the concept of waterproofing and water resistance. Most people confuse the meaning of “water resistance” with “waterproof,” but what is the difference?

Waterproof is defined as something that is technically impermeable to water regardless of how long it is submerged in it. On the other hand, water resistance is defined as an object or something that resists the penetration of water for a certain depth, pressure, and duration but is not entirely safe from water.

WATERPROOF WATCHES ARE A MYTH

As anyone who is knowledgeable about watches knows, no timepiece can be 100% waterproof, regardless of the design utilized. Distributors may use the phrase “waterproof,” but watchmakers who are knowledgeable about the subject they are dealing with don’t. Water resistant, yes, but not waterproof.

Diver’s watches with water resistance classification of 300 or even 1000 meters are sometimes referred to as “waterproof” watches because, when properly maintained and used customarily, they are impermeable to water. This is probably the closest thing to a waterproof watch that you can find.

SORRY, NO AFFIRMATIONS ON LABELS

In a sense, labels can be very assuring as to what they say. Such as food labels claiming, “all natural ingredients,” which aren’t entirely true.
The water resistance capabilities of timepieces can deteriorate over time. The key components of a watch that keep its internals safe from water are the rubber or silicone O-rings that are found at the crown and the caseback, which eventually stiffen and deteriorate after a couple of years.

O-rings are pieces that inevitably age as the units are distributed from the factory. O-rings that have aged tend to shrink or stiffen, which then causes the water to penetrate the unit. In such instances, the O-rings would just snap. It may take years before this happens, but it undeniably does.

One possible cause of a water-resistant watch being compromised by water is its improper use or lack of maintenance. Given that a timepiece has a water resistance rating of 30m or 50m, it can be classified as “mildly” sealed from humidity. This can be interpreted to mean that actions like swimming or being caught in the rain may cause water penetration to the watch and may further lead to damage.
Several other diver watches from well-known manufacturers contain extra pushers to run a chronograph in addition to a weak spot at the crown. Even with the sealing O-rings, water can still penetrate the case through all these additional openings created by the moving parts.

Users must ensure the crown and additional push buttons are securely put in place before diving. Any change made to these moving parts while submerged is a water entry point. If you dive with the crown pulled out, it is the equivalent of leaving the door of a submarine open while submerged, regardless of whether your watch has a 1000 m water resistance rating. Your crown might also need to be changed if it develops a flaw over time.

THE CAUSE OF MOISTURE ON YOUR WATCH FACE

Have you ever seen a watch commercial with droplets on its face? Of course not! That’s because, unlike beverages, sweat doesn’t look good on watches. Even when you don’t get your watches wet, there are still several other possible causes for moisture to get into your watch. A common issue is a quick change in air temperature, such as going from a cold room into one that is warm. Similarly, to observing how water condenses on the outside of a cold bottle when you remove it from the refrigerator. Your watch experiences the same process; the warmer air causes condensation droplets to form inside the crystal. Hot showers with watches on are another common source of dampness. Even though your watch has a respectable water resistance rating, condensation from hot water can still occur.
Moisture inside your timepiece can be caused by humid environments, like rainforests or jungles, or even by participating in sports that make you sweat a lot.

Moisture inside your timepiece can be caused by humid environments, like rainforests or jungles, or even by participating in sports that make you sweat a lot.

A crack over the crystal or a poorly sealed caseback are examples of situations that may allow moisture to enter your watch. Water in small quantities can slowly enter your watch, causing condensation on the face—an indicator that it is time to get it fixed.

WATER DAMAGE TO A WATCH

If the watch is left untended, water inside of the watch can damage the movement by causing rust to form on the metallic components of the movement. Soapy or salty sea water is significantly more harmful. The inner workings of a watch, such as the jewels in the movement, the hands, and other small components, are extremely sensitive and operate with extreme precision. Internal corrosion is the death sentence for any mechanical machine. When the movement becomes water-damaged and no longer accurately tells the time, the watch becomes unusable.
Also, when the lume effect of the markers and hands has diminished or stopped lighting, this could be a symptom of water damage.

D.I.Y CONDENSATION FIX

There are two main solutions to a moisture problem with your timepiece:
One option is to attempt to dry it out yourself if it’s just a little condensation that affects your timepiece for perhaps a day or two at most, and the humidity inside isn’t too high. Alternatively, if there are more than several more droplets in there, it is preferred to hire a professional.

Let’s assume you can do it. Here are the most popular D.I.Y methods for removing condensation from a watch even before it destroys the movement.

HEAT FIX

Lay your timepiece in its natural position (the caseback lying down), near a radiator, a lamp, or even in just a warm location. With whatever heating method you use, control the temperature, because overheating can cause damage if exposed for too long. Keep a close watch on your timepiece!
Make sure that you open the watch via the crown before applying the heat. To get quick results, put your watch on the back of a laptop or desktop computer. The hot air emitted by the cooler fans will assist you in quickly removing most of the condensation inside. Another method is to use a hairdryer, but also be cautious not to overheat the watch.

The trapped air inside your watch will warm up, causing the moisture to evaporate and hopefully exit through the crown tube. It may seem obvious, but we think it should be said anyway. Never ever place your watch in a microwave or oven!! Both will generate excessive heat and will most likely permanently damage your watch.

AIR DRYING

This may be a slower option to heating the watch but exposing your wristwatch to a cool air fan or a windy spot in your household for a couple of days will end up draining inner condensation by evaporation. Again, remember to unscrew the crown to allow the trapped humid air to pass out of the watch.

DESICCANT TRICK

Submerging a watch that has been accidentally immersed in water in a desiccant material within a closed container or canister is a popular method for aiding its drying process. The moisture in the piece will be absorbed by the desiccant element.
Do you still have your shoe boxes hidden? Check it out for packs of silica gel pebbles. Silica gel pebbles, raw dry white rice, and cat litter pebbles are widely known desiccants that can be purchased or found in specialty shops. Even so, not all these items should be used on a watch. It is highly recommended to avoid the use of rice or cat litter pebbles to avoid starch or mineral particles from entering your watch. Some of these desiccant tricks may be more harmful than beneficial, so cling to the use of proper silica gel in sealed packs.

WWAWMD: What Would a Watch Modder Do?

For modders with the necessary skills, a much faster and more efficient method of removing the caseback of the watch is suggested. For watch modders, we recommend exposing the watch to heat, sunlight, or cool air while facing straight down without the caseback. Moisture will freely evaporate upward through the open caseback.
For those who are familiar with watch servicing, another option is to consider removing the movement and dial entirely, then the manual process of wiping off the humidity with an appropriate microfiber cloth before reassembling everything. You can put these same parts in a dry area for a day or two before reconstructing them.

FIND A WATCHMAKER

If your watch has extensive water damage, our best advice is to avoid attempting to repair it yourself. Instead consider taking it to a reputable and reliable watchmaker for professional repair. If you don’t think you can fix it on your own, sometimes giving up is not that bad. It’s better to ask for professional help than attempt it on your own.
We also recommend that you have it properly maintained by a watchmaker instead of a jewelry store that provides service and maintenance. Serious moisture damage may necessitate the disassembly of up to 100 watch components.
Individually, the external and inner parts must be dried and lubricated. Many may also require replacement. Professionals perform these tasks in drying machines to ensure that moisture as well as other residues are removed. Compromised pieces might have to be repaired, as well. All this needs to be completed by a pro. If the simple fixes don’t work, don’t be afraid to seek professional assistance to save your watch.

CONCLUSION

Once you’ve resolved the moisture issue with your Seiko wristwatch, it’s a breeze to figure out why or where the condensation came from. The more you know about your Seiko, the better equipped you will be to safeguard it in the future. If you are a scuba diver, it is recommended that you have your watch tested every year. Or every two years if you do not wear your watch underwater on a regular basis.
Another thing is that you must fully comprehend your watch’s “water resistance” rating and read the user’s manual. It is necessary to read the manual to avoid misusing your watch and causing damage to it.

If you live or work in very humid environments, it is recommended that you leave your watch at home or invest in a diver’s watch. Better yet, refrain from taking your watches in hot showers, as hot showers or temperatures with soap can damage your watch and put its water resistance to the test.

If you notice small cracks on the crystal of your watch, it is best that you have it replaced as immediately as possible. Watch-Modz has a large inventory of Seiko Mod parts that will protect your Seiko watch from moisture or dust infiltration.
The other two parts that typically impact the water resistance rating of your Seiko watch are worn-out crowns and cracked casebacks. Check that these are properly sealed and that the gaskets you’re using aren’t stiff or damaged, or your watch might not be completely protected from water coming inside. You can see a wide range of replacements by checking out our shop.

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BlogOctober 18, 2022October 18, 2022 by Pamela Tabago

NH35 VS. NH36 Movements

NH35 VS. NH36 What's The Difference?

Have you asked yourself what’s the difference between the NH35 and the NH36 movements? Or maybe, you’d like to know the difference between other Seiko NH movements like the NH38 or NH70? This is a common question we have when we begin modding, so let’s take a deeper dive into the movements to see what sets them apart from each other. Read on to learn more!

NH35 to NH70 MOVEMENT LINE

There are currently ten calibers in the NH “Basic Mechanical Series” movement line. Now, we are going to focus on the NH35’s primary five variations.

The 4R3x movement is the base caliber used in the NH35 (Seiko 4R35), NH36 (Seiko 4R36), NH38 (Seiko 4R38), NH39 (4R39), and NH70 (Seiko 4R70).

The NH mechanical movements, or NH movements, were introduced by Seiko Instruments, Inc. Due to its long-lasting functionality and superior quality in contrast to other solutions within the same market sector, this soon established a strong place in the industry.

This renowned Seiko Caliber is available mostly in middle-tier product lines, but it can be used at a variety of price points. The affordability of this movement has made it the biggest base movement for modding parts.

In general, the Seiko NH series of mechanical movements operates at the same frequency of 21600 VPH(Vibrations per hour), which is critical for achieving the optimal quartet of precision, durability, maintenance ease, and energy efficiency. A large percentage of Seiko’s other mechanical movements also use this frequency. When it comes to accuracy and reliability all of the NH movements are identical. The only real differences are the complications that come with each variation.

The main differences between the NH movements:

NH35 – Date Only
NH36 – Day & Date
NH38 – Open Heart
NH39 – Open Heart & 24HR Subdial
NH70 – Skeleton

WHEN IT COMES TO QUALITY...

A perfect automatic watch movement would have manual winding and a hacking capabilities, which are features that the five Seiko Calibers stated above have. These two qualities, when utilized on a regular basis, increase its functionality for anyone who does not feel the need to wear a watch all of the time.

The 7S26 movement, a classic workhorse movement, provides a solid foundation for the NH movement framework. This guarantees that the NH movements are indeed long-lasting and efficient.

These Seiko movements serve as a benchmark for Seiko’s more sophisticated Seiko 6R movements, which are based on the 7S movements as well.

Workhorse Movements are movements with sleek aesthetic and fundamental features that allow them to work at maximum efficiency while meeting all five of the following parameters: long-term sturdiness, precision, stability, ease of maintenance and repair, and low cost of services.

The Best Selling - NH35 Movement

The NH35 is the most common and most bought movement out of the NH series available to the public. A piece featuring 24 jewels; a three-hand self-winding movement with date, hacking seconds, and manual winding. The NH35 movement is the date only version of the NH series.

Cost-effective and comprehensive, the NH35 is easily fit into timepieces costing less than $200. The 4R35 movement, which is essentially the same as the NH35 but with the Seiko branding instead of SII, is widely used in mid-range models such as the Seiko Cocktail Time.

The NH35 is utilized in both Seiko watches and third-party timepieces. The Seiko model (4R35) has 24 jewels as well and is virtually identical. The Swiss 2824-2 and SW200 movements are more expensive than the NH35A, making the NH35 a better pick for Seiko Mods.

NH36 Movement

The configuration of the NH36 movement is similar to that of the NH35, with hours, minutes, seconds, date, manual winding, automatic winding, a hacking second, a power reserve of approximately 41 hours, and 24 jewels. The only real difference between the NH35 Vs. NH36 is that the NH36 movement has a day wheel in addition to the date wheel.

The Seiko 4R36 movement can also be found on the vast majority of Seiko automatic watches, as well as other versions from other well-known manufacturers around the world. Like the 4R35, the 4R36 is virtually identical to the NH36 with the addition of the Seiko brand logo.

NH38 Movement

An addition to this NH movement line is the NH38 movement, which has not yet garnered as much popularity as the other movements, but it is a piece that will appeal to those who want to go back to the basics.

The NH38 is the simplest of the NH movement, with just three hands and the normal 4R3x capabilities. The NH38 is featured in basic dial watches. You can also find the Seiko variant 4R38 in a few more dressier watch designs by Seiko.

As more and more open heart dials come to the modding scene, you will see more NH38 Seiko mods popping up.

NH70 and NH71/NH72

The Seiko NH70 movement and NH71 are recent additions to the NH series. These movements have become very popular in the modding scene especially recently with all the new NH70 dials coming out.

The skeletonized automatic calibers based on the NH3x (NH35A) framework inherited the key identifying feature of a 3-hand, 24-jewel watch with functions including the use of hand-winding, hacking second hand, and automatic winding, it also comes with the standard power reserve of 41 hours.

The NH70 has a per-day accuracy range of -20 to +40 seconds (tested in daily hands-on conditions). In contrast, several other documents showed that perhaps the accuracy is in the lower range. Whenever the air temperature is stable, this inaccuracy is likely to be reduced.

The structural and technological aspects of the NH71 movement are identical to those of the NH70 movement. The most noticeable distinction between the 2 Seiko movements is their appearance. The NH70 is nickel-plated, whereas the NH71 and NH72 are remarkably similar to the NH70 except for the color. NH71 is gold-plated gilded, while NH72 is a black gun metal color.

Conclusion

This blog will highlight the most important models in Seiko’s NH series, spanning from the classic NH35 to the current NH70 and others. We believe Seiko has the highest quality automatic movements on the market compared to price! In the world of watchmaking and modding, the Seiko NH movements are a powerhouse to reckon with.

We provide some of the top Seiko mod parts on the market here at Watch-Modz. Our SKX007 compatible components are designed to meet and perhaps surpass the quality of Seiko replacement parts while also providing some outstanding styling options at an affordable price.

Browse our inventory of Seiko movements and shop for other watch spare components. There’s so much Watch-Modz has to offer, so check us out today!

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BlogOctober 12, 2022October 12, 2022 by Pamela Tabago

Seiko Yachtmaster Mods

The Seiko Yachtmaster Mod is a classic and admired form of watch modification. The inclusion of a Yachtmaster bezel insert is indeed the easiest way to identify this model. The Seiko SKX007 Yachtmaster bezel inserts are offered in a variety of colors, such as silver, gold, blue, white, and black, to mention a few. This bezel insert style gives off bold and elegant qualities and can be dated back to 1992, when the Rolex Yachtmaster made its market debut. The watch was a wardrobe staple that just radiated elegance, and the market had never seen such luxurious watches designed for luxury yacht owners. Moreover, the Yachtmaster broke the original tradition of Rolex only releasing a few watch variations, by offering it in varying sizes such as: 29mm, 35mm, and 40mm.

Imagine the Yachtmaster inspiring watch modders and builders to rebuild it years later using the iconic Seiko SKX007 as a basis. The SKX007, the timepiece for the average Joe, is essentially everything that the Yachtmaster isn’t. To this day, looking at a well-crafted Seiko Yachtmaster mod, the combination of the two diametrically opposed styles feels perfect.

Most Seiko Yachtmaster mods are called that simply because of the bezel insert, shown below are 2 versions of this:

Silver Yachtmaster

Not a lover of brilliant, glistening gold Yachtmaster inserts? You might be interested in a Silver Seiko Yachtmaster mod. It’s a subtle and stylish option when matched with the proper watch dial. The silver Yachtmaster design is ideal for individuals that prefer a discreet, attractive, and yet sophisticated style for their statement pieces that will look stunning on any wrist.

If this is your style and flair, take a look at our silver YM style bezel insert for SKX007.

Black Yachtmaster

Black Yachtmaster Mods have become one of the most common modifications used to achieve such a popular look. It’s no wonder that most watch modders and builders have the Black YM Style bezel insert as their favorite Seiko build!

They’re sleek, subtle, and just downright cool. Some Black Yachtmaster type Seiko builds feature a black watch casing, while others prefer a silver watch case, which also provides a wonderful contrast. Which ever color you choose, a Seiko Yachtmaster mod will be sure to impress bystanders!

Check out our Black Yachtmaster Bezel Insert to build your own!

Conclusion

Each style has its own fan base, as evidenced by the numerous spectacular photographs circulating on Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook, and blogs. However, others remain skeptical because not all would-be modders are able to locate compatible parts for their first SKX Yachtmaster build. We have fixed that by providing as many yachtmaster style parts as possible at Watch-Modz! Another issue is that, because there are so many distinct elements, it’s difficult to know where to begin. We strive to fix that with our detailed Seiko Modding Tutorial.

New modders may also have uncertainty and lose confidence in their ability to make the mod function. These are common and relatively normal problems that even experienced modders confront. It takes time and effort to progress from shaky hands to being able to execute precise and smooth builds and apply exactly the correct amount of pressure to install hands. It’s a learning curve, but worth it after you complete your first Seiko mod.

However, we must acknowledge that the procedure is somewhat complicated. Dealing with delicate parts of a watch to make an SKX007 Yachtmaster mod, and every other form of watch building, requires a lot of time and commitment.

You might want to take the time to read our blog on “5 Reasons to Build A Seiko Mod,” where you can gain some inspiration, insights, and encouragement from experienced modders about customizing your own. This will motivate you whenever you are about to give up. Also, our other watch modding blogs will show you that it is possible to figure out how to do it yourself after you get past the frightening learning curve and have the appropriate strategies, attitude, and equipment.

The effort you put in, the time you devote, and the abilities you acquire are far more rewarding than anything else. Always remember that wearing something you put time and work into is inspiring and feels amazing. You’d be proud of the handiwork you fashioned for your own wrist; it’s your pride and honor.

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BlogSeptember 16, 2022September 16, 2022 by Delbert Duba III

Bezel Insert Guide

How To Use A Watch Bezel

Today we will be talking about the different styles and functions of bezel inserts for your watch. We will also discuss how you can utilize these functions in the real world. There are many different designs of bezel inserts, each with a specific purpose. You may even own a few of these yourself and want to learn how to read them. Well you’re in the right place! Whether it’s a diver, compass, or GMT, you will learn how to read the most underutilized watch function.

Diver Bezel

Arguably one of the most common insert designs would have to be the diver bezel. The official name of a diver bezel insert is actually, count-up. This count-up insert can be found in many variations including the Yachtmaster, Sub, and SKX007 to name a few. Although there are many variations of the count-up bezel, they all serve the same function.

But what classifies it as a divers’ bezel? There is actually an ISO 6425 standard for divers’ bezels.

ISO DIVER SPECS:

It must be fitted with a unidirectional bezel
Include a scale showing 60 minutes
Have markings at least every 5 minutes
Needs a pre-select marker (usually a triangle with lume pip) to mark a specific start for minute reading.

That’s great to know, but how does it work? First you turn your bezel counter clockwise until the 12 o’clock marker lines up with the minute hand of your watch. Now as your minute hand moves, you’ll be able to track the amount of minutes that pass. This is a quick and handy timing device, but only for up to 60 minutes. Due to the advancement in dive technology, these bezel inserts are typically used to time a lunch break now!

GMT Bezel

The GMT bezel insert is the second most common bezel insert design. This insert comes with 24 hour markers and doesn’t tell elapsed time, but rather it tracks another time zone. You will see this bezel insert on watches with 4 hands instead of 3. The fourth hand (or GMT Hand) is to read the 24 hours around the bezel. One of the most noticeable differences between the GMT bezel and the Diver bezel (other than the look) is that the GMT bezels are bi-directional. If you are building a GMT watch, simply leave out the click spring and add a slightly larger bezel gasket for a tight bi-directional turn. With Seiko finally launching the 4R34 GMT movement a few months ago, you will see this insert more often on Seiko mods then ever before.

How Does It Work?

So, how do you use the GMT insert to track a second time zone? Let’s find out!

Step One: First, find out how many hours you are ahead or behind from the second time zone.
Step Two: If you are behind the new time zone you wish to track, then turn the insert counter clockwise. If you are ahead of the new time zone, you will turn the insert to the clockwise.
Step Three: Now turn the bezel that many hours away from the 12 o’clock hour marker on the dial. For example: If you are in New York and want to track California which is 3 hours behind the first time zone, you will need to turn your bezel 3 hours clockwise. This will have the 21 hour marker on the insert at the 12 o’clock position.
Step Four: Use the fourth hand (GMT hand) as a second hour hand that reads against the bezel insert. The GMT hand will only rotate the dial once every 24 hours hence the 24 markers on the GMT bezel. This will give you the military time of AM and PM to differentiate day from night of your second time zone.

Compass Bezel

One of the more obscure bezel inserts to use, is the compass insert. You have probably seen them on a few models, like the Seiko Land Tortoise and thought it was just a design. However, you’d be wrong as this insert is 100% functional. With Watch-Modz releasing a new Compass Bezel Insert for SKX007 you’ll be sure to see a lot more of these in due time!

Now I know what you are thinking, how can this insert really show you directions? Let’s take a deeper look at the method of determining your location.

This method will work for everyone, however, which hemisphere of the earth you live in will determine how you rotate your bezel insert.

Step One: First, you will need to locate the sun in the sky (please do not stare at the sun or look directly at it). This method will not work at night and requires the sun in the sky to function.
Step Two: Remove your watch and with the correct time set, point the hour hand directly towards the sun but with the watch laying flat.
Step Three: This step will change depending on which hemisphere you are located in.

North Hemisphere

If you live north of the equator, read on. Rotate your compass insert until the “S” is exactly in-between of the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker. With the hour hand still pointed in the direction of the sun.

South Hemisphere

Now, if you are south of the equator you will still point the hour hand at the sun. Rotate the compass insert until the “N” marker is half way in-between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker.

*Always place your directional marker in-between the acute angle that the hour hand and 12 o’clock marker make and not the obtuse angle between them.

That’s it! you have now found North. Now this method is not as accurate as a real compass, but it is very useful when you are in a pinch.

Dual Time Bezel

The last bezel insert we will be discussing is the Dual Time Insert. Don’t confuse this with the GMT bezel insert mentioned earlier, although the function is extremely similar.

This Dual Time insert does exactly what it sounds like, measures a dual time zone. So, then what makes this different from the GMT? Well, the GMT uses a fourth hand to track the second time zone. However, a dual time insert only has numbers 1-12 to track a second time zone using your standard 3 hand watch.

This is the easiest insert to use and works every time. The Dual Time bezel insert is basically used as a second set of dial hour markers. For example; You are in Virginia and it is 12 o’clock. Your brother lives in Nevada 3 hours behind you, and you always want to know what time it is at his place quickly. Just set the “9” on the bezel to the 12 o’clock hour marker on the dial, since that is a 3 hour difference. Now your watch will say noon, but if you look at the bezel insert as a dial, then it will read 9 o’clock. as the hour hand moves to 1 o’clock you’ll see that the 10 is above the 1 meaning it is now 10 at your brothers.

Conclusion

That’s the majority of bezel inserts used on Seiko mods. I hope this has helped you learn how to use the different styles of bezels correctly. Bezel inserts are one of the most neglected functions on a watch. Maybe now you can get some use out of yours! Whether you’re diving, hiking, or just tracking another time zone just remember, you’re watch does more than just tell time!

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BlogSeptember 1, 2022September 15, 2022 by Delbert Duba III

$39 Automatic Watch?

Review of A $39 Automatic Dive Watch

While browsing the internet for new watch releases, we came across something interesting. A new dive watch from Invicta touting a price tag of only $39! Our first thought was, this has definitely got to be a quartz…but we were wrong! This $39 Pro Diver comes complete with a NH35 automatic movement and 200M of water resistance, this was a deal we couldn’t pass up!

Before you order this watch you may be asking, is it worth it? Also, as a modder you may be asking, am I able to modify this Invicta? Well, all of your questions will be answered in this watch review as we break down this Invicta piece by piece from a modders perspective. Get ready for the most in depth review of a watch you’ve ever read.

The Watch Box

Obviously, the first thing you will encounter when buying a new watch is the box. Many people, believe it or not, collect watch boxes. Not only to look at a nice box, it also helps the resale value if you ever decide to sell the watch.

This model of watch came in the familiar Pro Diver box that most of the more affordable Invicta’s arrive in. Their trademark yellow color and familiar logo are the first things you’ll notice. The box feels of great quality but I can’t get over the smell of the glue holding it all together. I’m sure that’ll dissipate as time goes on. I did notice it can be slightly difficult closing the box, as it doesn’t quite want to line back up once opened.

What's Included With the Watch?

I didn’t expect to receive much with the watch given the price point. However, the box alone wasn’t bad for the price. In the box you also receive an Invicta microfiber cleaning cloth and a warranty/instruction manual.

As for the watch, it came well packaged with an Invicta hard tag, and a plastic film covering the front and back glass. I am already impressed with the price of this watch and I haven’t even touched it yet.

How's The Quality of The Case?

My initial inspection of the case is not bad at all. The case has mirror polished sides, with deep brushing on the lugs. The case is made out of 316L stainless steel, and comes with a screw-down crown. The case is an homage to the Rolex Sea-Dweller like many brands have done. The black sub bezel is a nice contrast to the silver case and accents the insert numbers well. The watch does have more weight than I expected it to have but that’s a good thing, weighing in at 96 grams.

One thing watch modders hate when modding an invicta is the huge “Invicta” text engraved on the side of the case. Well you don’t have to worry about that with this Pro Diver model! It comes with a nice clean polished side. I do wish it came with drilled lugs, but honestly the lack of holes on the side actually meshes really well with the clean design.

Quality of The Strap

As expected the quality of the strap is not the greatest. Now don’t get me wrong, it is not a bad strap by any means, I just prefer metal bracelets.

The strap that comes on this model of pro diver is a 22mm red polyester woven strap. The tail end comes with a strip of leather stitched on to the center of the holes. Some people might like this style and to be honest it was pretty comfortable. However, after wearing this watch for a few days, I noticed the strap was becoming rather itchy.

Fortunately, the 22mm size made it very easy to change the band to something I liked a little more.

Invicta Pro Diver 35486 Specs

For the price of this watch you actually get some pretty decent specs comparable to a new Seiko. Let’s go over the details and sizes of this watch.

Case Size: 44mm
Lug to Lug: 52mm
Lug width: 22mm
Case including crown: 48.2mm
Water Resistance: 200M with screw down crown
Movement: NH35 Automatic Movement
Case material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Flame Fusion
Caseback: Flame Fusion Exhibition
Strap: Red Polyester

Can I Modify This Invicta?

Okay, now to get to the part everyone is wondering, can you mod this watch? Well of course! Every watch can be modified, but to what extent? Let’s open up this watch and see what the sizes are!

NH35 Movement

The first thing you’ll notice is the movement. It is indeed an NH35 just as advertised. The NH35 comes with a custom Invicta rotor found on all of their automatic pro diver models. This particular movement seems to be a TMI produced NH35 and not the more typical SII found in many microbrand watches. Don’t worry though, there is no difference in specs or quality between TMI and SII.

This will make changing hands easy, as there are many varieties on NH35 hands on the market. We will get into that more later. You’ll also notice printed on the caseback are the words “assembled in Malaysia”

Chapter Ring and Dial Size

I was sorely disappointed when I removed the dial/movement assembly. The dial and chapter ring were stuck together into one piece unlike the Parnis version of the Sea-Dweller homage.

These pieces can be separated, however I can’t assure the dial won’t be damaged in the process. The outside diameter of the chapter ring and dial are 32.2mm and the inner diameter is 28.9mm.

If you can get a custom chapter ring made at 28.9mm x 32.2mm then you will be able to replace the dial with any 29mm NH35 dial from Ebay.

I will note that the dial and interior of the watch were absolutely spotless without a single spec of dust. I was truly impressed with the cleanliness of the assembly which can be subpar in cheaper watches.

Replacement NH35 Hands

Luckily, since the inner diameter of the chapter ring is 28.9mm the visible dial size is much closer to Seiko’s 28.5mm dial size. This will allow you to replace the hands with any aftermarket NH35 hand sets.

The cleanliness of the hands were also very apparent like the dial was. It was extremely clean and the hands didn’t have a single scratch or spec of dust on them. The finishing was phenomenal and the hands were stacked perfectly parallel to each other. The red second hand comes with the trademark Invicta logo and was a nice touch to compliment the red strap.

Bezel and Bezel Insert

Being that the case is 44mm in diameter, I already figured that the SKX007 bezel inserts would not fit. The brushed aluminum bezel insert is not the best material but does look good on the watch. The measurements of the insert are as follows:

OD: 40.8mm

ID: 33.5mm

Where Can I Buy This Watch?

You can purchase this Invicta Pro Diver straight from the Invicta website! Hurry as it’s only on sale for a limited time and is already being sold on Amazon for $81!

Invicta Link : Pro-Diver 35486

Amazon Link: Pro-Diver 35486

Conclusion

In conclusion, this watch is definitely worth the money! No, it’s not going to replace a Seiko and it’s not the best watch for modding, but you get plenty of bang for your buck! For just $39 you’ll get an NH35 automatic watch, with 200m of water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a 120 click bezel. The only thing I changed on this watch was the strap, and that’s all it needed to be the perfect daily wear!

If you want to get yours, then buy it straight from Invicta’s website as these are already selling for $81 on Amazon.