How To Use A Watch Bezel
Today we will be talking about the different styles and functions of bezel inserts for your watch. We will also discuss how you can utilize these functions in the real world. There are many different designs of bezel inserts, each with a specific purpose. You may even own a few of these yourself and want to learn how to read them. Well you’re in the right place! Whether it’s a diver, compass, or GMT, you will learn how to read the most underutilized watch function.
Diver Bezel
Arguably one of the most common insert designs would have to be the diver bezel. The official name of a diver bezel insert is actually, count-up. This count-up insert can be found in many variations including the Yachtmaster, Sub, and SKX007 to name a few. Although there are many variations of the count-up bezel, they all serve the same function.
But what classifies it as a divers’ bezel? There is actually an ISO 6425 standard for divers’ bezels.
ISO DIVER SPECS:
- It must be fitted with a unidirectional bezel
- Include a scale showing 60 minutes
- Have markings at least every 5 minutes
- Needs a pre-select marker (usually a triangle with lume pip) to mark a specific start for minute reading.
That’s great to know, but how does it work? First you turn your bezel counter clockwise until the 12 o’clock marker lines up with the minute hand of your watch. Now as your minute hand moves, you’ll be able to track the amount of minutes that pass. This is a quick and handy timing device, but only for up to 60 minutes. Due to the advancement in dive technology, these bezel inserts are typically used to time a lunch break now!
GMT Bezel
The GMT bezel insert is the second most common bezel insert design. This insert comes with 24 hour markers and doesn’t tell elapsed time, but rather it tracks another time zone. You will see this bezel insert on watches with 4 hands instead of 3. The fourth hand (or GMT Hand) is to read the 24 hours around the bezel. One of the most noticeable differences between the GMT bezel and the Diver bezel (other than the look) is that the GMT bezels are bi-directional. If you are building a GMT watch, simply leave out the click spring and add a slightly larger bezel gasket for a tight bi-directional turn. With Seiko finally launching the 4R34 GMT movement a few months ago, you will see this insert more often on Seiko mods then ever before.
How Does It Work?
So, how do you use the GMT insert to track a second time zone? Let’s find out!
- Step One: First, find out how many hours you are ahead or behind from the second time zone.
- Step Two: If you are behind the new time zone you wish to track, then turn the insert counter clockwise. If you are ahead of the new time zone, you will turn the insert to the clockwise.
- Step Three: Now turn the bezel that many hours away from the 12 o’clock hour marker on the dial. For example: If you are in New York and want to track California which is 3 hours behind the first time zone, you will need to turn your bezel 3 hours clockwise. This will have the 21 hour marker on the insert at the 12 o’clock position.
- Step Four: Use the fourth hand (GMT hand) as a second hour hand that reads against the bezel insert. The GMT hand will only rotate the dial once every 24 hours hence the 24 markers on the GMT bezel. This will give you the military time of AM and PM to differentiate day from night of your second time zone.
Compass Bezel
One of the more obscure bezel inserts to use, is the compass insert. You have probably seen them on a few models, like the Seiko Land Tortoise and thought it was just a design. However, you’d be wrong as this insert is 100% functional. With Watch-Modz releasing a new Compass Bezel Insert for SKX007 you’ll be sure to see a lot more of these in due time!
Now I know what you are thinking, how can this insert really show you directions? Let’s take a deeper look at the method of determining your location.
This method will work for everyone, however, which hemisphere of the earth you live in will determine how you rotate your bezel insert.
- Step One: First, you will need to locate the sun in the sky (please do not stare at the sun or look directly at it). This method will not work at night and requires the sun in the sky to function.
- Step Two: Remove your watch and with the correct time set, point the hour hand directly towards the sun but with the watch laying flat.
- Step Three: This step will change depending on which hemisphere you are located in.
North Hemisphere
If you live north of the equator, read on. Rotate your compass insert until the “S” is exactly in-between of the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker. With the hour hand still pointed in the direction of the sun.
South Hemisphere
Now, if you are south of the equator you will still point the hour hand at the sun. Rotate the compass insert until the “N” marker is half way in-between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker.
*Always place your directional marker in-between the acute angle that the hour hand and 12 o’clock marker make and not the obtuse angle between them.
That’s it! you have now found North. Now this method is not as accurate as a real compass, but it is very useful when you are in a pinch.
Dual Time Bezel
The last bezel insert we will be discussing is the Dual Time Insert. Don’t confuse this with the GMT bezel insert mentioned earlier, although the function is extremely similar.
This Dual Time insert does exactly what it sounds like, measures a dual time zone. So, then what makes this different from the GMT? Well, the GMT uses a fourth hand to track the second time zone. However, a dual time insert only has numbers 1-12 to track a second time zone using your standard 3 hand watch.
This is the easiest insert to use and works every time. The Dual Time bezel insert is basically used as a second set of dial hour markers. For example; You are in Virginia and it is 12 o’clock. Your brother lives in Nevada 3 hours behind you, and you always want to know what time it is at his place quickly. Just set the “9” on the bezel to the 12 o’clock hour marker on the dial, since that is a 3 hour difference. Now your watch will say noon, but if you look at the bezel insert as a dial, then it will read 9 o’clock. as the hour hand moves to 1 o’clock you’ll see that the 10 is above the 1 meaning it is now 10 at your brothers.
Conclusion
That’s the majority of bezel inserts used on Seiko mods. I hope this has helped you learn how to use the different styles of bezels correctly. Bezel inserts are one of the most neglected functions on a watch. Maybe now you can get some use out of yours! Whether you’re diving, hiking, or just tracking another time zone just remember, you’re watch does more than just tell time!
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